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Small, walkable, unassuming, breezy, mellow - and I sincerely hope it stays that way. A lovely Aegean sky, starry nights, several trails (some more rewarding than others); simple architecture, delicious Greek dishes (many made with local produce, but at Athens prices); a sweet sandy beach with tamarisks, easily reached on foot (there are other beaches, but most are accessible only by boat); mostly respectful, friendly locals; low-key tourists - except for some (not all!) of the day-trippers and yachters, who are under the misconception that they own the beach and harbour, occasionally blasting their music from their boats. - The two mini markets are hugely expensive and only one was open in late September. If you're sojourning in Athens or one of the larger islands, do your pocket a favour and stock up on groceries there. - There are next to no recycling bins and, sadly, there is visible evidence of fly-tipping, though not as bad as in other places I've been to. It's in the locals' interest to prove that they care about the environment, as most of this lovely island's loyal lovers do. - Last but not least: the local authorities ought to bar speedboats and anything with an engine and propeller from accessing - illegally, of course - Livadi beach: they bring zero income to the inhabitants and drive away the type of visitor who respects the island and its people and wildlife. On one day, I counted six vessels anchored less than 30 yards from the strand; this is dangerous for swimmers, unsightly and disrespectful to those who want to just gaze at the sea. I challenged the 'captain' of the boat nearest to the beach and met, inevitably, with rudeness. By the way, I wasn't the only one who was angry at this invasion; other swimmers shared this view and felt strongly about it.

I knew that Iraklia was a quiet island ..I have travelled in Greece for 50 years .It was still an adventure travelling 8 hours on the Blue Star ferry .I could have made it easier with a stopover in Naxos . The island was great for walking ,swimming ,sketching and meditation, The islanders were friendly and helpful …only 2 shops ,no petrol station ,one taxi ( no bus May/ early June ). I ate most nights at Akathi restaurant which was near Angelos Rooms ( my wonderful accommodation), the food here was really well cooked and presented and Demitrios & Paris and their team of cooks were great hosts and determined to look after their customers. There are about 9 signed hiking paths and you can buy a small hiking map from Melissa shop . If you are on an island hopping trip you can link Iraklia with Skinoussa , Koufanisi, Amorgos ,Denoussa + Paros / Naxos …but personally I wouldn’t rush the visit —I felt that I felt healthier and calmer each extra day on Iraklia.